Start Here – Quilting 101

New to quilting? Looking for some help with the basic skills and terms? Start here! Quilting tips tricks and little bits of inspiration for the newbie to intermediate quilter.

  • What is a quilter’s “Flying Geese”?

    When I first started sewing I quickly picked up on the fact that sewists have their own terminology and a catchy clever phrase for just about everything related to our craft…. like a secret club language if you will. As a newbie, this can be overwhelming and confusing… but nothing tops the day I heard about a quilter’s “flying geese”…

    Excuse me… What the what? 

    Don’t worry… we’re not zoo-ologists now or anything. The flying geese is a sewing technique that gets your perfectly perfect “v” shapes in your designs very single time. And it is absolutely beautiful!

    As for what I can discover about the origins of the term “Flying Geese”… there area few theories floating around. A lot of it is folklore going back to the civil war times. It is said that these quilts were displayed on front porches etc to convey secret messages along common paths that would point/guide fleeing slaves toward the northern free states. Geese fly north to Canada, hense the goose reference. Geese fly in a “V” formation… you can connect the dots 🙂

    So let’s learn the simple steps how to create these beautiful “v” shapes with fabric, shall we?

    What is a Quilter's flying geese?

    Today I have 2 methods to show you on how you can make a flying geese block. You’ll be a pro in no time! I’ll even link to a few free patterns out there that use this block should you get really goose happy and want to create more!


    Traditional Method – Makes 1 Block

    This block is finished out at 3” x 6”. For blocks of larger or smaller sizes, add ½” to the length and width when cutting to the desired size.

    1. On the wrong side of 2 dark 3 ½” squares, draw a guideline from corner to corner.
    2. Place 1 dark square right side down on a light 3 ½” x 6 ½” rectangle. Sew along the guideline. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim ¼” from the seam. Press out.
    3. Repeat step 2 with the other 3 ½” dark square.

    Traditional Flying Geese for Quilting how-to

    No Waste Method – Makes 4 Blocks

    You need one square, the size of the finished width you desire the Flying Geese to be + 1 ¼”.

    You’ll also need four squares that are the height of the finished unit you want plus ⅞”. The instructions below will produce four – 3” x 6” finished blocks.

    1. Place 2 dark 3 ⅞” squares on opposite corners of the 7 ¼” light square and on the wrong side of the dark 3 ⅞” squares, draw a guideline from corner to corner.
    2. Sew a ¼” from the guideline on both sides. Cut apart.
    3. Press seams out. Place 1 dark square right side down and sew a ¼” from the guideline on both sides. Cut apart and press seam out. Repeat with the remaining unit.

    Traditional Flying Geese for Quilting how-to

    What quilts can you make with flying geese?

    There are so many different quilt patterns out there that use flying geese blocks. So many of them are really quite stunning. Check out some of my favorite patterns below.

    Note: while several of the images contain a much more traditional feel of fabric… keep an open mind and picture some really bold and modern fabric pairings! – the possibilities of modern quilting are endless!


    Chasing Rainbows quilt, 74 x 74″, free pattern by Lynne Goldsworthy for Makower (PDF download)

    Imperial Token table runner, 16 x 48”, free pattern at Art Gallery Fabrics (PDF download)

    Flying Geese for Quilters - Free Pattern

    Plenum quilt, 64 x 73″, free pattern at Art Gallery Fabrics (PDF download)

    Remixed Geese quilt, 54 x 66”, free pattern at Robert Kaufman (PDF download)

    Spring House quilt, 55 x 67”, free pattern at Moda Fabrics (PDF download)

    Every Which Way quilt, 74 x 74”, free pattern at Riley Blake Designs (PDF download)

    Funky Zen quilt, 60 x 80”, free pattern by Heidi Pridemore for Benartex (PDF download)

    Fly Away Home quilt, 54 x 63”, free pattern at Benartex (PDF download)


    Faded Geese quilt, ~65 x 91”, free pattern at Robert Kaufman (PDF download)

    The Chipper quilt, 68 x 68”, free pattern by Tula Pink (PDF download)

    Flying Geese for Quilters - Free Pattern

    FREE Easy Flying Geese Reference Guide

    I’m going to make this easy for you, my quilter friends!

    Pin the image below so you’ll have a quick guide to refer back to later when you’re creating your own little flock of flying geese on everything!

    I hope you found this short article helpful. You can always feel free to contact me if you have any questions! I’m happy to help!

    Flying Geese for Quilting how-to

  • No-Fail Quilt Binding Formula

    Today I’m going to share with you my absolute No-fail Quilt Binding Formula secrets. Whether you like to make your quilt binding the star of your quilt or you prefer it to just hold everything together and be more subdued… you need to know how much of it to make. Making too much binding is frustrating because it feels like a waste of fabric and time… but make too little binding and … ugh. It’s so so much worse!

    So, let’s get it right the first time and every single time after this, shall we? Then you’ll never have to question your measurements or pray that it all works in the end again! Sound like a dream?

    No Fail Quilt Binding Formula

    If you can calculate your binding length in advance, you can more effectively use the fabrics you have on hand or know exactly how much fabric you need to purchase.

    Any major pattern should come with all your fabric requirements already calculated. If you are sewing your own project (go you and your creative self!) you’ll need to do a little math to determine the yardages you will need to complete your quilt top.

    At this point, you should have your quilt top plus your batting and backing already assembled and quilted as the binding is usually the last and final touch put on a quilt.

    No Fail Quilt Binding Formula

    1. First, Square Up Your Quilt. There is no going back to re-do this part. Do it now and do it right.

      Your quilt will need straight 90 degree corners. Measure the center of your quilt.  The left and right sides of your quilt should be the same length as the quilt center. Do these measurements horizontal and vertical.

      No Fail Quilt Binding Formula

    2. Calculate the binding requirement – First, you need to figure out the perimeter of your quilt. This is the measurement all the way around your quilt.

      Measure the width and the height of your quilt, add those numbers together and multiply by 2.

      (Width + Height = Number) x 2 = Total perimeter of your quilt.

      Take Perimeter measurement of your quilt and add 12″ for seams, corners, and finishing.

      This number is the total binding length needed! See this example below

      No Fail Quilt Binding Formula

    3.  Piecing your binding – Using the example above, odds are that you do not have a continuous piece of fabric that is 272″ long. You’re going to need to piece it together from pieces of fabric.

      Most fabric is about 44” wide, but once you trim off the selvages, you’re left with about 40-42” of workable yardage. Let’s go with 40” to be safe because you also have to account for joining the strips, plus a mitered corner. Better to be safe than sorry!The next step is to work out how many strips we need to cut to make at least 272” of fabric. To figure that out, you’ll need to divide the perimeter of your quilt by 40, and round up to the nearest whole number. For this quilt, that’s 272 ÷ 40 = 6.8. So you’ll need 6.8 strips that are 40″ long… or just round up to 7 whole strips.

      All these numbers mean nothing when you’re trying to gauge how many yards of fabric you’ll need… which leads me to the final step.

    4. The last step is to multiply the number of strips by the width of the strips to work out how much yardage you need.

      Using our example quilt, 7 strips x 2.5″ width = 17.5. So we’d need 18” of fabric to make the binding for this quilt.

    I know its a little math, but us quilters have learned to be absolute wizards with fabric. A few little, simple calculations are nothing we can’t handle! Let me know if you have any questions or give me a comment below. If suddenly a light bulb went off and you’re now feeling extra equipped in your sewing knowledge today, tell me!

    Happy Quilting!

    PS – I made this chart that you can pin for easy reference to the no-fail quilt binding formula.

    No Fail Quilt Binding Formula

  • Do you HAVE to press your seams as you sew?

    Raise your hand if you’re busy! Uh huh… I’m not about wasting time or doing things a certain way just because “that is how they are done”. I need to know why. I need reasons and facts and usually visual proof as to why it has to be done that way. So when it comes to Pressing/ironing… Do you HAVE to press your seams as you sew?

    Meticulously detailed quilting is beautiful… but so is the crazy free spirited quilt-as-you-go quilts! And the latter has a lot less fuss to it… If you’ve come here with those same questions in mind, I got you covered. Let’s figure this out together.

    Do You have to press your seams?

    First, Ironing vs. Pressing

    Let’s get this straight so as not to confuse the two later within this post, shall we?

    IRONING is what you do when you have a piece that has already been made, like a shirt or a blanket, and you want to get the wrinkles out. When you IRON you press down with the iron onto the fabric, and you move it back and forth slowly until all the wrinkles are gone.

    PRESSING is what you do when you’ve got a project in progress that isn’t finished yet. You move the iron up and down, lifting it and setting it back down (usually over a seam) and then raise it to move it again. There isn’t much side to side motion going on.

    Got it? … Good!

    So, Do you have to press your seams?

    A lot of patterns will instruct you to “press” your seams. If it tells you to…. you gotta do it. I’m sorry. There’s not really a cheater method to get around this step. (*insert tough love hug*)

    You can ignore the instructions or do the “finger press” method to coax your fabric into a half-pressed position that is … let’s face it… good enough, sometimes.

    I was such an impatient child in the beginning stages of quilting… “But I just want to sew!” I’d almost scream if I saw the word ‘press’. I get it.

    I had a dear friend look at my quilt and right after complimenting me on my fabric choices…. she pointed out all my flaws… I guess I wasn’t the only one who could see them after all. Talk about tough to swallow. Ouch.

    The thing is, they were all simple mistakes that could have been avoided but actually doing the prep work instead of deciding I would just skip over what I didn’t want to do.

    I know it seems tedious and a lot of effort, but it is almost impossible to make your items look polished without pressing the seams.

    The seams will not lie flat unless you take the time to press them in quilting, and you can’t achieve clean lines if your seams are a bubbling and bumpy mess.

    …And who wants to spend all that time and effort (and money) on a quilted piece that looks like something you worked on while on Ambien and Mr. Pibb at the same time?

    My highest compliments come from people who see one of my quilts and ask where I bought it from… Bought. As in, they would expect it to be sold in a cute boutique store… and they totally want one too. (score point for self-confidence!)

    Not like in the early days where I would hold up my quilt and have someone ask “Oh… hey… yeah, that’s pretty… did you m-make it yourself? (I have honest girlfriends, y’all… get you some that are fiercely honest but love you just as fiercely too. It’s amazing.)

    I don’t tell you this to toot my own horn on my improvement on my own skills over the years… but to tell you that the only difference between those two moments was that I actually did all the steps and practiced (a lot) in between.

    Practice consistency and it won’t seem like a chore.

    Pressing has become second nature now and I can’t stand it where the seams get fussy and won’t sit right without pressing… something that would not have bothered me several years ago… my how times have changed.

    Have I convinced you that pressing is important yet?

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    Do You have to press your seams?

    How to correctly press your seams in sewing

    If you’re new to sewing or new to realizing that yeah… its kind of a must to do the whole pressing thing… there is a right and a wrong way to press.

    Here are some tips on how to press the right way when sewing to get the best-finished product possible. I promise you’ll be so proud that you stuck with it and did this. 

    Do You have to press your seams?

    Use good tools

    Get a good iron. For actual ironing (see above at the beginning of this post for the difference between ironing and pressing) you’ll want something like one of these.

    For pressing, you can use the same irons… personally, I LOVE this little itty bitty iron (I call him Steve) He is very helpful in my sewing room. I actually wrote a whole post on the mini iron last Tuesday if you missed it, you can check it out here.

    You’ll also need some type of pressing board or ironing board. I used a big clunky old-housewife board for a long time. It’s a little too precarious and unstable around the little ones for my taste. I switched to a heavy blanket on my kitchen counter (they’re granite countertops, but don’t try it at your house if you aren’t sure).

    Use the Correct Settings

    With quilts we mostly use cotton fabrics… but if you aren’t using cotton or you do your own thing and switch it up… MAKE SURE YOU USE THE RIGHT HEAT SETTING. If you don’t head my warning, I swear you’ll only do it once because you can absolutely ruin a fabric by using the wrong setting on your iron. So much for all that work… Test on a scrap piece if you aren’t sure.

    The Actual Pressing

    When you’re ready to press a seam, remember that you are not ironing at this point. You shouldn’t be tugging and pulling at the seams. No sliding around on your fabric either.

    Your iron should be working like an elevator, up and down, up and down… You can pause on the ground floor a bit to really set the seams, just not too long or you’ll scorch the fabric. If you move around and wiggle, you will end up with crooked seams and make the fabric stretch and warp. Press the iron down and then lift up and move it to the next section.

    The first thing you do is press your seam with it closed. Just like when you sew it on your machine. This sets the seam in place and helps shrink up the threads.

    (It sounds tedious, but you won’t even notice it after you put this into practice. Do you notice a recurring theme in this post?)

    Then, use your fingers to open the seam and press again.

    What if you want to press your seams to one side instead of open?

    If you decide to press your seams to one side, then follow your preference.

    There’s a great debate among quilters on the right way to do this. I dip my toes in both of the waters from time to time depending on the fabric I am using and the finished results that I desire (shhh… don’t tell anyone ok?)

    This is mostly an issue when you are working with dark and light fabrics where your seams could potentially show through the layers of lighter fabrics. Always press your seams toward the darker fabric.

    This is simply for aesthetics. There is no right or wrong way to lay your seams.

    Do you have any other questions about pressing?

    What do you think about it? Is it like brushing your teeth to you and you just do it without even having to think about it… or do you loathe it? Maybe somewhere in between? Let me know down in the comments and I will get back with you.

    Happy Sewing!





  • Which Iron Should You Be Using In Your Sewing Room??

    All too often I think when we dive into sewing supplies everyone gets hung up on which sewing machine and what percentage of cotton thread etc…  which iron should you be using never comes up! This one is THE BEST Iron for your sewing room!

    I’ve had a few over the years and this little friend has been a go-to favorite. Let me introduce you to the itty bitty iron and then I’ll go into more detail why it should have a place in your sewing room as well.

    [This post contains affiliate links]

    The only iron you need in your sewing room

    The only iron you need in your sewing room

    Years ago when I first started sewing and learning the importance of pressing open your seams etc, I reached for the only iron we owned in the house… My husband’s iron that he used to press his military uniforms.

    Let me clarify that I do not live on Mars… I just don’t like to iron. I’m all about making things easy… so I don’t own any clothes that need upkeep like ironing. I never practice it (who does?) thus I am terrible at ironing clothes and being the wonderful husband that he is… he ironed his own uniforms during his service in the Navy. So my skills never improved and all was good in the world…

    Until I decided I needed to use the iron for quilting. Y’all… my husband’s iron was huge, heavy and clunky – Obviously designed by someone who didn’t ever use it. I made due for several years but I hated opening/pressing seams. While the steam option on the iron made for the best-pressed seams… I scalded my fingers to the point where I questioned if I would ever have fingerprints anymore. ouch! Maybe I’m just not good at it?

    I thought this was all there was… But one day, I stumbled upon this little tiny iron in the fabric store and it was instant love.

    This tiny iron was just big enough to fit into my sewing box.

    The only iron you need in your sewing room

    The Pros:

    I discovered a bonus as soon as I got home that day… the steam feature didn’t burn my fingers because it was a much more compressed area to steam that was comparable to the small seam I was trying to press and not a geyser of hot steam. (you mean there is a better way??)

    The handle has a grip that is non-slip and fits well in your hand – right or left hand, either way.

    The handle doubles as a way to wind up your cord – totally designed by someone who actually USES the thing! As a designer myself, I really appreciate innovations like this.

    The only iron you need in your sewing room

    This iron is perfect for ironing small pieces/scraps or even fat quarters.

    The dials are marked clearly and easy to read with adjustable temperature settings. Plus, it gives you the option for steam or no steam.

    The only iron you need in your sewing room


    The only thing that I do not recommend this iron for is ironing a large piece of fabric… obviously because the surface of the iron is smaller, a full-size hot iron will get the job done more efficiently.

    I’ve had this tiny iron (I call him Steve) for over a year now and use it at the very least several times a week.

    I’ve never ever had a single complaint.

    Amazon currently has 1,588 reviews and 4.5 stars, which means that I’m not the only one in love with little Steve.

    The Best Part!

    I saved this for last because I know you quilters… you’ve done your research and you have decided what you want… but now the real question, right?…

    What is it going to cost? $40??… $30?? …. Nope! How about $20.99! SAY WHAT!?! It’s on sale right now on Amazon (and it is a prime item woohoo 2-day shipping) Regular $29.

    So anyway, I had to share my favorite little iron and make sure that you don’t miss out on a good deal! Who knows when the price will go up again because its Amazon and I don’t understand the price structure vs. sale structure. So scoop this up now and enjoy your own tiny Steve!

    Hey if you have any questions, you’re always welcome to contact me. I’m happy to help!

    And also, Please do suscribe to my e-mail newsletter! I love to share fun deals and exclusive offers with my favorite STARS 🙂

    FREE Quick & Easy Pattern
    This pattern comes together fast and it is easy to understand! It won’t take you forever to make either!

  • What Makes Fabric Organic?

    Organic Fabric?… really?

    What makes fabric organic?

    I get “organic” at the grocery store. If you can afford it, you opt for organic produce… if you can’t well… you either don’t sweat it or you say an extra prayer and know life understands you’re doing the best you can. – At least that’s the way the shift in the way many of us eat now is moving.

    We tend to be a generation that also cares about the impact of what we consume has on the planet as well as what it is made of.

    But in the fabric store? I’m pretty sure you’re not going there looking for a snack or to save the earth. We shop for fabric because we want to make pretty things! So whats the point of fabric being organic?

    For the longest time, I honestly thought that “organic fabric” meant that it had a higher price tag (a little snooty-er social status as well) and maybe didn’t get the synthetic chemical bath that regular lower class fabrics to get squeaky clean. Fewer chemicals = better for the environment, right?. Maybe someone sings original opera to the cotton plants to make it grow more? Sounds pretty organic to me.

    Ok so maybe I didn’t have all the facts… keep reading… I did lots of very studious research on this just for you. (and it gives me something that I ‘have to work on’ while my husband watches more sports games on TV… More sports…)

    For the sake of making this post not last for days and days, we’re going to focus on specifically organic cotton. There are other fabrics out there proudly boasting that organic label such as line, ramie, hemp, and bamboo… just to name a few.

    What is Organic Cotton Fabric?

    Cotton fabric is the end result. The fabric starts with the cotton plant and goes through a host of processes before the fibers can be woven into the gorgeous fabric that we see in the stores.

    Organic cotton is grown using farming methods and processes that have a low impact on the environment. (Told you it must be better for the environment!) Organic cotton is farmed in a setting with no pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. Only natural fertilizers are used.

    Everything from start to finish is focused on doing as little damage to the earth as possible. Organic fibers are bleached using oxygen-based bleach instead of chlorine and dyed with low-impact dyes.

    Third­-party certification organizations verify that organic producers use only methods and materials allowed in organic production.

    In addition, federal regulations prohibit the use of genetically engineered seed for organic farming. A fabric can be called organic as long as 95% of the fabric contains the organic fabric.

    Does Organic Cotton Feel Any Different than Un-organic?

    I can personally attest to this. So unless you go to the fabric store and feel for yourself, you’ll just have to take my word for it…

    YES! There is such a difference in the feel. Organic cotton feels softer and smells cleaner. It is less likely to trigger allergies with a 100% chance of you wanting to keep touching it.

    You know when you touch a fabric and it just folds in your hand like smooth butter? I know I kind of dote on them a lot, but I love Art Gallery Fabrics. They are more expensive but well worth it for the superior quality and touch of their fabrics.  Next time you go to the quilt store, ask to see it so you can touch it. (FYI, you won’t find them at the big chain stores that are looking to price fabrics as cheap as possible. I have some links down at the bottom if you keep reading.)

    Why Does Organic Cotton Cost More?

    Truth is, things that don’t use cheap chemicals cost more. Just like the products in the grocery store. The farmers who choose to go organic aren’t doing it to cut costs. It actually adds more time and more money on their part to produce a better product for you.

    The low impact dyes are more expensive than their chemical laden counterparts.

    Fighting pests and weeds without chemicals take more time.

    The farmers that are committed to this highly regulated and super picky way of life doing the world a big favor.

    In case you’re wondering… it isn’t THAT much more expensive. If you’re super spreadsheet budgeting before you start a project, know it will run you a few dollars more depending on the brand and the fabric as well as if it was limited print. Most organic cotton fabrics run around $11-$18/yard, with a huge selection on the lower end of the range.

    If you order online sometimes, you can find a good coupon code to offset a little of the costs.

    Check out other ways I find good deals on fabric.

    How is it better for the environment?

    I touched on this a bit above, but let’s go a little deeper… shall we? There are no pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals allowed from the beginning of the process to the end of the process. Only natural fertilizers are used. The harvesting and cleaning process uses all natural ingredients.

    Going one step further… The sustainable farming practices used to grow organic cotton do not pollute groundwater, surface water, soil, or air. In fact, the organic farming practices actually improve soil quality.

    Are there other benefits?

    I know I talked about how soft it is and how the farming process is kinder to the earth… but what else can it do? I did talk it up to be a super-powered fabric – It’s only natural that you expect more.

    A lot of people, children and babies especially tend to be very sensitive to synthetic fabrics, traditional clothes soaps, and fabric softeners… My first child was like this. Anything I dressed her in irritated her poor little skin! It was a nightmare to find clothes when she was a baby.

    Since organic cotton cuts out literally every irritating nasty chemical, the result is going to be easy for the skin.

    Where Can I Find Organic Cotton?

    Just like it took a while to get the organic food industry more mainstream, the organic fabric market is slowly becoming more and more popular as the word gets out.

    You can find all the brands below on I shop here all the time because it’s super convenient to have my items shipped to me and not have to drag my kids to the store with me. You can read my full review of here. I’m also putting a few handy links to some Amazon listings *hello free prime shipping!*

    I already mentioned my BFF fabric Art Gallery. They’re modern prints, and commitment to organic fabrics is why they will quickly become your BFF too… just remember they were my BFF first.

    Cloud 9 has luscious marry-me-now soft solid fabrics. They feel absolutely heavenly to the touch!

    Birch Fabrics is another one of my favorites… go check them out and tell me don’t just fall in love with everything they have!

    So there you have it. Organic Fabric – absolutely for touching and saving the planet at the same time… totally NOT for eating, even though it is processed very safely.

    What is your take on Organic Cotton?
    Do you have a preference?

    If you have any questions or feel like I didn’t answer your more in-depth questions, comment down below and I’ll do my best to figure it out for you.

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  • What To Do When Life Won’t Let You Quilt!

    What to do when life won't let you quilt

    You know those days… where you want some stress relief to sit at your sewing machine and make all the pieces fit together perfectly BUT… the kids get sick, you forgot about a project you volunteered for, a spontaneous playdate at the park eats up a whole afternoon, your 15-minute dinner took 45 minutes somehow, nap time was… ha, what naptime?… Maybe you’re just grumpy and your tolerable level of all things grown-up was surpassed before 3 PM. Here are some practical tips on what to do when life won’t let you quilt!

    Grab your coffee.

    Momma heart to heart convo here:

    As modern moms, we are a jack of all trades and look cute too. I don’t wear heels, because it makes me feel like a baby giraffe, but I can rock a pair of yoga pants while running errands! *high five*

    My google calendar looks like somebody is about to level up on Tetris but could also watch the whole thing crumble down at any second.

    I’ve accepted this as my fate as a busy mom.

    To be clear, I’m not bragging. It is a rather unstable way to live life and I don’t recommend it to anyone… but I know I’m not alone. My ‘tetris’ does tend to crumble from time to time, but I love my life the way it is. I love my babies and the chaos they bring to our lives. We have a TON of fun in our house. Crazy, busy fun.

    I often dream of a carefree Saturday where daddy takes over and I have 10… 6… 4… heck, even 2 hours to myself to sew without interruption…

    Reality is me being my very own fairy godmother at the end of a long day and telling my kids “You can stay up an extra 15 minutes if you let mommy sew, ok?”

    It’s awesome. Let me tell you, we ALL get really excited about those extra 15 minutes… Good times.

    What to do when life won't let you quilt

    So, you want to know what to do when life won’t let you quilt?

    If life is so ‘tetris’ like for you that a scheduled time to sit at your machine is a far-off dream… try to adjust your course with these steps to move you in the right direction towards your sewing dreams.

    No, these steps aren’t technically sewing (yet). But if the clouds ever part and you find yourself with time in the future, you’ll be socked piled and ready to take action! Canceled plans? Is the baby STILL sleeping? Boom. Go! Now is your chance!

    1. Pick out a pattern. Even if it is just browsing Pinterest while you wait for the spaghetti to boil. Get your game plan on. – You can download a FREE Quilt Pattern from me and be one step closer!
    2. Fabric shop – Again, it’s not sewing (yet) but you’ll be ready when the occasion does arise! I prefer to shop for myself (I know, I am so thoughtful!) If I go into the fabric store with someone else in mind, I lose interest more quickly if I can’t finish my self-imposed deadline. If the opposite is true for you, and you find motivation in a project for someone else, by all means… shop and gift away! You can read about how I save money while shop for fabric.
    3. Prep your fabric/supplies – A cutting mat and some fabric is a much more mobile mess that doesn’t demand as much attention as a full on quilt does. Get your pieces cut to size and organized. If you have to stop 3 minutes in to fill up a sippy cup, it’s ok. You can start back up pretty quickly. Just take extra care in making sure your rotary cutter or scissors will not get into the hands of the little ones!

      This Quilt Shopping List has everything you’ll need to make a quilt, so when the time comes you won’t be missing anything and have to stop sewing.

    I promise you this…

    Even when it seems like you will NEVER have time to sew or life is just too crazy right now (and for the foreseeable future)… these steps will help you get there.

    If you have to work in chunks of time that are 10 minutes long while waiting for dinner to finish…

    If you have to shop for fabric on your phone while laying in bed or while sitting in the car pickup line at school…

    You are still making progress!

    Perhaps it’s not the ideal glamourous progress you had hoped for, but hey… (some tough mom love)… you get what you get and you don’t throw a fit! — I’m so sorry, I will try not to use my mom words on you again.

    There WILL come a day when the clouds open up and you will see a quilting window and because you’re a rockstar (be honest, you totally are) you’ll pull out all your prep stuff and hit to floor sewing! It’ll come together quickly and you’ll feel radiant in all your fabric glory!


    If you want some other tips on how to work quilting into your busy day (it’s possible, *pinky promise*), I share my busy momma secrets in this free e-book download! I’m happy to share and it is helping many other mommas out there that are struggling to juggle mom lide and quilting life, just like you!